How to Remove a Toilet
Toilet removal might sound like a challenging task – even for a DIY plumber who has tackled numerous at-home jobs in the past. However, with the right tools and clear instructions, there's no reason you can't remove a toilet or replace it on your own if the toilet cannot be repaired.
TOOLS & SUPPLIES
TOOLS
- Sponge
- Bucket
- Utility Knife
- Wire Brush
- Putty Knife
- Wrenches
- Hacksaw (Optional)
SUPPLIES
- Rags
- Newspaper
STEP ONE: GATHER TOOLS & SUPPLIES FOR REMOVING A TOILET
Before beginning, ensure you have access to another toilet in case the process of removing the old toilet takes more time than you think it will or you run into some complications. Also, make arrangements for disposal of your old toilet, as some cities will not dispose of them on bulk trash pickup days. Then, set the stage for your toilet removal by laying down newspaper and rags so you have a place to set the old toilet once it's removed. In addition, gather any equipment you need to remove a toilet such as: a sponge, bucket, utility knife, stiff wire brush, hacksaw, putty knife, wrenches, ratchet wrench and sockets, and rags.
STEP TWO: TURN OFF THE WATER
Turn off the toilet's water supply, then flush the toilet several times to remove the standing water from the bowl and tank. Scoop out any water that remains, and sponge both the tank and the bowl dry. If you have a wet-dry shop vacuum, you can use it instead to remove any remaining water.
STEP THREE: REMOVE THE TANK FROM THE TOILET BOWL
Remove the tank from the bottom half of the toilet. This is where a ratchet or basin wrench will come in handy. Use one to remove the nuts from the mounting bolts holding the tank onto the bowl. Place the tank on the newspaper you laid down earlier.
STEP FOUR: REMOVE THE NUTS & BOLTS SECURING THE TOILET TO THE FLOOR
Use an adjustable wrench to loosen and remove the nuts from the floor bolts at the base of the toilet. If there are trim caps over the bolts, remove those first. A hacksaw can be used to cut the bolts if they won't come loose with a wrench.
STEP FIVE: REMOVE THE TOILET FROM THE FLOOR
Take out the utility knife and use it to free the toilet from the seal holding it to the floor. There is also a wax ring that seals the bottom of the toilet to the floor underneath the bowl. Rock the toilet back and forth until it's freed from its bonds. Lift the toilet and set it on its side on the newspaper.
STEP SIX: CLEAN AND COVER THE TOILET FLANGE
Scrape wax from the broken seal on the toilet flange (which is on the floor). Do this quickly, as the flange connects to the sewer pipe, which emits a gas. Once the wax is gone, use a stiff wire brush to clean the flange and stuff an old rag into the opening of the pipe. Cover it with an inverted bucket until you're ready to install your new toilet.
HOW TO REMOVE A COMMERCIAL TOILET
"How do you remove a commercial toilet? It does not have a water tank but instead a water pipe coming out of the wall going to the bowl."
To remove a commercial toilet, the first step is the same as a residential toilet: shut off the water to the toilet. If you are removing the toilet permanently, shut the water off to the building. If you are only removing the toilet temporarily, shut the water off to the stop. It's the turn that comes out of the wall. This pipe has a small screwdriver shutoff under the chrome cap.
Once the water is shut off, you can simply unthread the pipes from the top of the toilet, disconnect the floor bolts on each side and lift it off the floor.
Should you need help, our licensed plumbing specialists are fully equipped to handle any size commercial job. Call today to schedule your service.
TOILET REPLACEMENT ISSUES
The floor raises whenever you install a new hardwood or tile floor. Because the floor is higher, you have to raise the flange that connects the toilet to the residential plumbing.
There are a number of solutions plumbing contractors will perform for this plumbing repair.
You can install a new flange attached to the existing piping at a taller elevation. Closet flanges should be 1/4 inch above the floor height or the wax ring will not seal properly.
You can install an extension flange. This is a 1/4 inch flange that sits on the top of the existing flange and is then silicone caulked to the flange. You can stack as many as four flanges to get the right height. Once you have the right level, use special plastic shims to level the toilet and make it sit tight to the floor.
Once you have leveled the toilet, you should seal the crack between the floor and the bowl of the toilet.
This is a minor plumbing repair for plumbing contractors should you need assistance.